Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves,bound long waves and wave groups   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

T.E. Baldock  P. ManoonvoravongKim Son Pham 《Coastal Engineering》2010

New laboratory data are presented on the influence of free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. As a result of the very significant difficulties in isolating and identifying the morphodynamic influences of long waves and wave groups in field conditions, a laboratory study was designed specifically to enable measurements of sediment transport that resolve these influences. The evolution of model sand beaches, each with the same initial plane slope, was measured for a range of wave conditions, firstly using monochromatic short waves. Subsequently, the monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves and then substituted with bichromatic wave groups with the same mean energy flux. The beach profile changes and net cross-shore transport rates were extracted and compared for the different wave conditions, with and without long waves and wave groups. The experiments include a range of wave conditions, e.g. high-energy, moderate-energy, low-energy waves, which induce both spilling and plunging breakers and different turbulent intensities, and the beaches evolve to form classical accretive, erosive, and intermediate beach states. The data clearly demonstrate that free long waves influence surf zone morphodynamics and promote increased onshore sediment transport during accretive conditions and decreased offshore transport under erosive conditions. In contrast, wave groups, which can generate both forced and free long waves, generally reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport under erosive conditions. The influence of the free long waves and wave groups is consistent with the concept of the relative fall velocity, H/w_sT, as a dominant parameter controlling net beach erosion or accretion. Free long waves tend to reduce H/w_sT, promoting accretion, while wave groups tend to increase the effective H/w_sT, promoting erosion.  相似文献   

Evaluation of the physical process controlling beach changes adjacent to nearshore dredge pits     

L. Benedet  J.H. List   《Coastal Engineering》2008,55(12):1224-1236

Numerical modeling of a beach nourishment project is conducted to enable a detailed evaluation of the processes associated with the effects of nearshore dredge pits on nourishment evolution and formation of erosion hot spots. A process-based numerical model, Delft3D, is used for this purpose. The analysis is based on the modification of existing bathymetry to simulate “what if” scenarios with/without the bathymetric features of interest. Borrow pits dredged about 30 years ago to provide sand for the nourishment project have a significant influence on project performance and formation of erosional hot spots. It was found that the main processes controlling beach response to these offshore bathymetric features were feedbacks between wave forces (roller force or alongshore component of the radiation stress), pressure gradients due to differentials in wave set-up/set-down and bed shear stress. Modeling results also indicated that backfilling of selected borrow sites showed a net positive effect within the beach fill limits and caused a reduction in the magnitude of hot spot erosion.  相似文献   

Internal structure of a trough blowout, determined from migrated ground-penetrating radar profiles   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

Adrian Neal  & Clive L. Roberts 《Sedimentology》2001,48(4):791-810

Ground‐penetrating radar (GPR) was used to investigate the relationship between the geomorphological development of a large aeolian trough blowout and the stratigraphy and internal sedimentary structure of its associated deposits. Although analogous, many of the data‐processing techniques routinely applied in seismic reflection are very rarely applied in GPR studies. In this study, a simple migration program was used that significantly enhanced the quality of GPR images from a large trough blowout at Raven Meols on the Sefton coast, northwest England. These improvements aided subsequent data interpretation, which was achieved through application of the principles of radar stratigraphy. GPR shows the pre‐blowout dunes to have a complex internal structure that suggests they were formed in the presence of at least a partial vegetation cover. Subsequent to stabilization of these dunes a thin soil developed. This dune soil forms an important radar sequence boundary and delineates a complex topography beneath the depositional lobe of the blowout. The internal structure of the depositional lobe of the blowout does not conform to a model of simple radial foreset deposition, as derived from contemporary process studies reported in the literature. Instead, the pattern of deposition has been extensively modified by the antecedent dune topography and by varying spatial and temporal exposure to important sand‐transporting winds that is partly controlled by interactions between the regional wind pattern and local dune morphology. Trough blowout deposits in coastal aeolian sedimentary sequences are likely to be recognized by the presence of laterally continuous packets of relatively high‐angle cross‐strata, which often display a spatially‐variable radial dip pattern that is only very poorly or partially developed. In addition, a soil, or other surface representing a significant hiatus in dune deposition, is likely to underlie the blowout deposits, the topography of which will show a clear relationship to the dip and orientation of the overlying cross‐strata.  相似文献   

杭州湾南岸庵东潮坪现代沉积特征     

徐建卿  邵虚生 《上海国土资源》1988,(2)

在进行庵东潮坪水文要素定点测量的基础上,对地貌特征,沉积粒度,沉积构造及重向剖面作了全面分析与研究。结果表明,滩地位于杭州湾进、退潮流的交会点,控制其发育的主动力为潮汐作用,具明显的不规则半日潮特性,涨潮流强度远大于落潮流,造就了宽达十余公里的潮滩地貌。滩地水动力深受湾内水流影响,高潮期服从其总体潮流流向,导致潮坪上发育众多与杭州湾深槽系统相连的潮沟,破坏了沉积物正常分布规律,高潮坪存在一定向平行岸线的大型潮沟,受强劲水流影响,沉积粒度粗化,并因快冲快淤而产生变形构造;中潮坪接受退潮期潮沟漫岸物质,粒度相对较小,分选性变差,沉积构造以直脊流水波痕及板状交错层理为主;低潮坪潮流作用大、沉积粒度粗,分选性最佳,发育小型流水波痕,内部构造以槽状交错层理,“青鱼刺”层理及再作用构造为特征。潮坪近岸处潮沟迁移层序及浪成波痕层理的发现反映水动力异常强大,威胁人工海塘的安全,建议停止进一步围垦滩涂,采取促淤方法,抑制潮沟的发育,以维持滩地稳定。  相似文献   

A morphodynamic model for beach gradients     

J. Hardisty 《地球表面变化过程与地形》1986,11(3):327-333

This paper outlines a general framework for analysis of the problem of beach gradients which divides the system into: (1) the independent controls, (2) the hydrodynamics, (3) the sediment dynamics, and (4) the morphodynamics. A model is derived from the combination of these stages which shows close agreement with field data for wave steepnesses of less than about 0.06, but predicts lower beach gradients than arc observed for steeper waves. The use of ‘analytical feedback’ in the present model rather than the ‘iterative feedback’ which is used in computer simulations demonstrates that differential sediment transport may be responsible for stabilizing the beach gradient.  相似文献   

Municipal initiatives for managing dunes in coastal residential areas: a case study of Avalon, New Jersey, USA     

Karl F. Nordstrom  Nancy L. Jackson  Michael S. Bruno  Harry A. de Butts 《Geomorphology》2002,47(2-4)

The characteristics of foredunes created in a municipal management program on a developed barrier island are evaluated to identify how landforms used as protection structures can be natural in appearance and function yet compatible with human values. Shoreline management zones include a naturally evolving, undeveloped segment; a noneroding, developed segment; eroding and noneroding segments of an “improved beach” where dunes have been built by artificial nourishment; and a privately built, artificially nourished dune on the shoreline of an inlet.A disastrous storm in 1962 resulted in an aggressive program for building dunes using sand fences, vegetation plantings, purchase of undeveloped lots, and sediment backpassing to maintain beach widths and dune elevations. The present nourished and shaped foredune in the improved beach is higher, wider, and closer to the berm crest than the natural dune. Restricted inputs of aeolian sand keep the surface flat and poorly vegetated. A stable section of this engineered shore has a wider beach, and sand fences have created a higher foredune with greater topographic diversity. The cross shore zonation of vegetation here is more typical of natural dunes, but the environmental gradient is much narrower. The privately built dune is low, narrow, and located where it could not be created naturally. Foreshore and aeolian sediments in the undeveloped segment and the improved beach are similar in mean grain size (0.16–0.21 mm) and sorting (0.31–0.39φ), but sediment on the surface of the nourished dune is coarser (28.1% gravel) with a more poorly sorted sand fraction (1.30φ) representing lag elements on the deflation surface.Willingness to enhance beaches and dunes for protection has reduced insurance premiums and allowed the municipality to qualify for funds from the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) to replace lost sediment, thus placing an economic value on dunes. Success of the management program is attributed to: (i) timing property-purchase and dune-building programs to periods immediately after storms (causing residents to accept high dunes that restrict access or views); (ii) instituting a vigorous education program (reminding residents of hazards during nonstorm periods); (iii) maintaining control over local sediment supplies (to keep pace with erosion and create new shoreline environments); (iv) investing private and municipal economic resources in landforms (qualifying them for external funds for replacement); and (v) maintaining, augmenting, or simply tolerating biodiversity and natural processes (retaining a natural heritage).  相似文献   

Coastal morphodynamics and Chenier-Plain evolution in southwestern Louisiana, USA: A geomorphic model   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Randolph A. McBride  Matthew J. Taylor  Mark R. Byrnes 《Geomorphology》2007,88(3-4):367-422

Using 28 topographic profiles, air-photo interpretation, and historical shoreline-change data, coastal processes were evaluated along the Chenier Plain to explain the occurrence, distribution, and geomorphic hierarchy of primary landforms, and existing hypotheses regarding Chenier-Plain evolution were reconsidered. The Chenier Plain of SW Louisiana, classified as a low-profile, microtidal, storm-dominated coast, is located west and downdrift of the Mississippi River deltaic plain. This Late-Holocene, marginal-deltaic environment is 200 km long and up to 30 km wide, and is composed primarily of mud deposits capped by marsh interspersed with thin sand- and shell-rich ridges (“cheniers”) that have elevations of up to 4 m.In this study, the term “ridge” is used as a morphologic term for a narrow, linear or curvilinear topographic high that consists of sand and shelly material accumulated by waves and other physical coastal processes. Thus, most ridges in the Chenier Plain represent relict open-Gulf shorelines. On the basis of past movement trends of individual shorelines, ridges may be further classified as transgressive, regressive, or laterally accreted. Geomorphic zones that contain two or more regressive, transgressive, or laterally accreted ridges are termed complexes. Consequently, we further refine the Chenier-Plain definition by Otvos and Price [Otvos, E.G. and Price, W.A., 1979. Problems of chenier genesis and terminology—an overview. Marine Geology, 31: 251–263] and define Chenier Plain as containing at least two or more chenier complexes. Based on these definitions, a geomorphic hierarchy of landforms was refined relative to dominant process for the Louisiana Chenier Plain. The Chenier Plain is defined as a first-order feature (5000 km²) composed of three second-order features (30 to 300 km²): chenier complex, beach-ridge complex, and spit complex. Individual ridges of each complex type were further separated into third-order features: chenier, beach ridge, and spit.To understand the long-term evolution of a coastal depositional system, primary process–response mechanisms and patterns found along the modern Chenier-Plain coast were first identified, especially tidal-inlet processes associated with the Sabine, Calcasieu, and Mermentau Rivers. Tidal prism (Ω) and quantity of littoral transport (M_total) are the most important factors controlling inlet stability. Greater discharge and/or tidal prism increase the ability of river and estuarine systems to interrupt longshore sediment transport, maintain and naturally stabilize tidal entrances, and promote updrift deposition. Thus, prior to human modification and stabilization efforts, the Mermentau River entrance would be classified as wave-dominated, Sabine Pass as tide-dominated, and Calcasieu Pass as tide-dominated to occasionally mixed.Hoyt [Hoyt, J.H., 1969. Chenier versus barrier, genetic and stratigraphic distinction. Am. Assoc. Petrol. Geol. Bull., 53: 299–306] presented the first detailed depositional model for chenier genesis and mudflat progradation, which he attributed to changes in Mississippi River flow direction (i.e., delta switching) caused by upstream channel avulsion. However, Hoyt's model oversimplifies Chenier-Plain evolution because it omits ridges created by other means. Thus, the geologic evolution of the Chenier Plain is more complicated than channel avulsions of the Mississippi River, and it involved not only chenier ridges (i.e., transgressive), but also ridges that are genetically tied to regression (beach ridges) and lateral accretion (recurved spits).A six-stage geomorphic process-response model was developed to describe Chenier-Plain evolution primarily as a function of: (i) the balance between sediment supply and energy dissipation associated with Mississippi River channel avulsions, (ii) local sediment reworking and lateral transport, (iii) tidal-entrance dynamics, and (iv) possibly higher-than-present stands of Holocene sea level. Consequently, the geneses of three different ridge types (transgressive, regressive, and laterally accreted) typically occur contemporaneously along the same shoreline at different locations.  相似文献   

Geomorphic and sedimentologic evidence for the separation of Lake Superior from Lake Michigan and Huron     

John W. Johnston  Todd A. Thompson  Douglas A. Wilcox  Steve J. Baedke 《Journal of Paleolimnology》2007,37(3):349-364

A common break was recognized in four Lake Superior strandplain sequences using geomorphic and sedimentologic characteristics. Strandplains were divided into lakeward and landward sets of beach ridges using aerial photographs and topographic surveys to identify similar surficial features and core data to identify similar subsurface features. Cross-strandplain, elevation-trend changes from a lowering towards the lake in the landward set of beach ridges to a rise or reduction of slope towards the lake in the lakeward set of beach ridges indicates that the break is associated with an outlet change for Lake Superior. Correlation of this break between study sites and age model results for the strandplain sequences suggest that the outlet change occurred sometime after about 2,400 calendar years ago (after the Algoma phase). Age model results from one site (Grand Traverse Bay) suggest an alternate age closer to about 1,200 calendar years ago but age models need to be investigated further. The landward part of the strandplain was deposited when water levels were common in all three upper Great Lakes basins (Superior, Huron, and Michigan) and drained through the Port Huron/Sarnia outlet. The lakeward part was deposited after the Sault outlet started to help regulate water levels in the Lake Superior basin. The landward beach ridges are commonly better defined and continuous across the embayments, more numerous, larger in relief, wider, have greater vegetation density, and intervening swales contain more standing water and peat than the lakeward set. Changes in drainage patterns, foreshore sediment thickness and grain size help in identifying the break between sets in the strandplain sequences. Investigation of these breaks may help identify possible gaps in the record or missing ridges in strandplain sequences that may not be apparent when viewing age distributions and may justify the need for multiple age and glacial isostatic adjustment models. This is the third in a series of ten papers published in this special issue of Journal of Paleolimnology. These papers were presented at the 47th Annual Meeting of the International Association for Great Lakes Research (2004), held at the University of Waterloo, Waterloo, Ontario, Canada. P.F. Karrow and C.F.M. Lewis were guest editors of this special issue. The U.S. Government's right to retain a non-exclusive, royalty-free license in and to any copyright is acknowledged.  相似文献   

Morphological characteristics and medium-term evolution of the beaches between Ceuta and Cabo Negro (Morocco)   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

G. Anfuso  J. A. Martínez del Pozo  D. Nachite  J. Benavente  A. Macias 《Environmental Geology》2007,52(5):933-946

This work presents the results of a combined study on the beach morphology and the evolution at short- and medium-term of the littoral between Ceuta and Cabo Negro (Morocco). It is an interesting sector showing a great increase of human occupation and coastal structures. The monitoring program allowed for the reconstruction of the beach morphological behavior and the seasonal changes. The studied beaches presented reflective profiles recording little seasonality, with the most notable morphological changes being strictly related to storms. Surf Similarity and Surf Scaling parameters highlighted the existence of intermediate and reflective beach states, characterized by plunging breakers. Aerial photographs and a satellite image have been geo-referenced and elaborated with GIS tools to reconstruct the short- and medium-term evolution of the littoral and the sediment transport pathways. The littoral showed important erosion at short- and medium-term related to a negative sedimentary budget because of offshore transport. Sand accumulation was recorded close to the main ports, i.e., Marina Smir and Marina Kabila. These port structures constituted impermeable, fixed limits, which divided the studied area into littoral cells. Other free, transit limits were also observed.  相似文献   

Heavy metals contents on beach and dune sediments from Espinho to Mondego Cape (Portugal)—influence of human activities     

J.M. Vidinha  F. Rocha  C. Patinha  E. Silva  C. Andrade 《Journal of Geochemical Exploration》2006,88(1-3):404

Following previous studies on beach and dune sediments from the Espinho–Mondego Cape coastal sector, geochemical studies have been done on the same sediments aiming to unravel the lithological from the anthropogenic geochemical signal. 129 samples have been collected from 45 profiles, in beach and dune sediments. Total Fe, Cu, Pb, Zn, Mn, Cd, Co, Ni, Cr, Ca, Mg and Al concentrations were measured in the fine fractions of the sediments. The absence of relationship between the analysed heavy elements and Al and the exhibition of contents higher than the rocks outcropping in the hinterland, point to an additional source of heavy metals related to human activities. The available data allowed us to consider that inputs from Aveiro lagoon (natural and anthropogenic), Douro River and coastal erosion (by littoral drift or advective currents) are the main sources of heavy metals in this region.  相似文献